Showing posts with label Stuart. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stuart. Show all posts

9 May 2013

A Walled-In Jaguar XJS

The “DeLorean in the Woods” that Matt featured recently, reminded me of this travesty near my house.

This once-noble mid-80s Jaguar XJS HE V12 appears to have been not so much parked, as walled-in like a medieval witch - but not hidden away in someone’s back garden/forest/orchard/hen house, waiting to be discovered as a miraculous barn find; this thing is in full view of the main drag and visible to everyone in the community.

One glance at the Jag and you can immediately tell it’s beyond redemption, but it’s impossible to get close enough to see inside it without loitering. Those signs on the front door tell me that whatever’s inside there isn’t into small-talk.

Sadly, this Jag exists in a purgatory that it doesn’t deserve, because XJSs aren’t rare enough yet to make near-derelicts like this one worth rescuing.

Since this is a car blog, not the Guardian’s Society supplement, I’ll leave it to your imagination to work out which of any number of potential gothic tragedies caused this scenario…


Note: I'll soon be posting an abandoned cars gallery.  Do you have any photos of abandoned rare or desirable cars?  If so please send to me at [email protected] - Thanks. Matt

25 Apr 2013

The Moscow Rules - How to ride at 60mph everywhere

Years ago I read something in a car magazine by one of those advanced driving gurus, who said the ultimate goal should be to average 60 mph everywhere without attracting attention. This is a philosophy I can live with. This is also a hell of a lot harder than you think, even on a motorcycle. A few criteria need to be observed. 

You’ll see all sorts of “riding advice” all over forums, websites and the corporate motorcycle media (in which, often-as-not, it actually comes across as a form of arse-covering enjoyment-suppression and H&S-derived responsibility-denial), but you won’t have seen anything like this:

These are the Moscow Rules - the possibly apocryphal, informal code of conduct for Western spies operating behind the Iron Curtain during the Cold War, which is as equally-applicable to riding bikes as anything I’ve read (with a couple of minor adjustments):

  • Assume nothing [or assume everything] 
  • Murphy is right. 
  • Never go against your gut; it is your operational antenna. 
  • Don't look back; you are never completely alone [should say always look back: lifesavers] 
  • Everyone is potentially under opposition control. 
  • Go with the flow, blend in [don’t let the scameras see you] 
  • Vary your pattern and stay within your cover. 
  • Any operation can be aborted. If it feels wrong, it is wrong [2nd-gear mingers past a police station, like Cal Crutchlow in the Thundersprint the other year] 
  • Maintain a natural pace [making progress!] 
  • Lull them into a sense of complacency [yes officer] 
  • Build in opportunity, but use it sparingly. 
  • Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee [??] 
  • Don't harass the opposition [cagers] 
  • There is no limit to a human being's ability to rationalize the truth [yes officer] 
  • Technology will always let you down [esp. if it’s Italian] 
  • Pick the time and place for action. 
  • Keep your options open. 
  • Once is an accident. Twice is coincidence. Three times is an enemy action [yes officer] 
© Stuart Jewkes 2013



8 Mar 2013

Living With - Aprilia RSV1000R Factory


Stuart Jewkes interviews club racer and sports bike connoisseur, Mark Beese, and asks him about life with an Aprilia RSV1000R Factory

The bike - Aprilia RSV 1000R Factory
The owner - Mark Beese


Prologue

Ask a bunch of bikers to name some cutting-edge sportsbikes derived from the mid-‘00s World Superbike Championship, and it’s very possible that no-one will mention the Aprilia RSV1000R Factory. Aprilias have historically always existed in the shadows cast by their more glamorous Bolognese cousins (those that can do no wrong and that wear red all the time), and it’s only recently with the incredible RSV4, that the tables have turned in Aprilia’s favour, particularly in WSBK.

The V-twin RSV1000R was introduced in 2004 as the updated evolution of the respected RSV Mille, and the “Factory” was the carbon-bodied, Ohlins-everywhere special edition that was easily the equal of any of its 1000-cc V-twin contemporaries at the time. Yet, bizarrely, everyone overlooked it. Back then, people were more easily seduced by those red supermodels from Bologna with their racing success and their superstar-associations, and the finance was still affordable - even though the Factory was several thousand pounds cheaper and every bit as good. As a result, few went for the RSV.

Fast-forward to the present, and the RSV1000R sits on the wrong side of the supply/demand curve by being both rare and cheap for what it is. Suspiciously so. You can get a good, low-mileage example for about four grand. That’s about twenty quid per mile-per-hour.

A couple of years ago my mate Mark Beese - club racer and sportsbike connoisseur, selected an ‘05 RSV Factory over a whole bunch of other exotic possibilities. Why would he do that, when he could have had any one of the Japanese products like a R1 or a K5 Gixxer, or even one of those Bolognese supermodels?

I asked him:

Why?

“I seriously looked at a MV Agusta, a Ducati 999R and the Factory. The Factory was the best-looking, fitted me the best, and was by far the best value for money.”

A bit of a no-brainer in that respect then?

“In that case, yeah. It just made sense. Look at the spec - unbelievable value for what it is.”

Let’s Start With That Engine

“It’s a 60-degree, 993cc V-twin made by Rotax. This engine has about 145 bhp - the titanium Akrapovic exhaust system is standard on the Factory, but this has also got a K&N filter, and the EPROM/ECU has been reprogrammed to the factory race setting. I always compare it to my mate Ady’s Ducati 996. This is a 996 on steroids.

“V-twins just make sense. Going from a V-twin back to a 600 like yours [Hornet] is like going back to a scooter where everything’s at the top end and you have to thrash it - pin it everywhere - to get anything out of it. A V-twin is just a wall of torque, from nothing.

“Many V-twins run out of steam at about 8k or 9k. With this, you have to be brave and know how to ride it to take it past there because it goes ballistic. Totally changes character with the induction and everything. The engine note even changes to something more like an IL4 - a totally different dynamic. From 8.5k to 11.5k it’s absolutely mental. It’s so unbelievably quick.

“I’ve owned all sorts of Japanese sportsbikes - all the “Big Four” - and only a Suzuki comes close to the Aprilia for pure bulletproof thrashability. The engine just hasn’t given me any problems at all. Not one. I gave it a big 18k service recently where the shims in the top end needed checking and they didn’t need touching. None of them. The engine has noticeably freed-up while I’ve had it too. It’s loads better.

You’ve finished running it in.”

“Yeah.”

You have to assume then, that it’s previous owner was a bit of a wimp.”

“Definitely. Another thing is it has a dry sump; so all the oil is stored in a catch tank on the L/H side of the bike. It’s designed to prevent oil starvation at any angle of lean [and 2nd-gear mingers!], but checking the oil level is a bastard. You have to do it when the engine’s hot. Another thing is people reckon the engine casing corrodes and firs up - they don’t at all. Just keep on top of it.”

What’s It Like To Ride?

“It’s everything you’d expect from something so well-equipped. Ohlins forks, Ohlins rear shock and steering damper. Of course it’s made for the track really, but on a smooth road it’s a revelation ‘cos it just sits there totally stable even when it’s on its ears. The steering geometry on it makes it feel like an RS250 but 30% heavier and bigger. I’ve changed the ride height to improve the handling further too - up 18mm at the rear, and dropped the forks through the yokes to steepen the head angle. Jacking it up at the back makes what is already a tall bike even taller; anyone under about 5’9” would be on tip-toes all the time with it.

“As far as riding it on the road goes, you have to ride using the torque. Don’t treat the huge engine-braking as an obstacle: let it work with you instead of against you. First gear tops out at 70 mph and second at 90 mph. All the other gears are close-ratio up to 169 mph. If you’re trundling along in 2nd and it feels like it’s about to stall, that’s 40 mph. The gearing’s so tall you can ride round in 1st and 2nd gear all day. To get the best out of it though, you’ve got to be fully committed.

“Like a lot of sportsbikes the mirrors look good, but they don’t work! Know that you will see nothing behind you due to crap visibility through the mirrors, but you end up going that damn fast anyway that you leave everything behind you without realising…

“With tyres, after about 3000 miles it just stops handling. It’s a 190-section as standard, but if you fit a 180 section with a taller profile it makes it turn quicker. For fast road work, a 180 is the one to have. Stick to the 190-section for the track where you need the stability of the wider tyre ‘cos you’re going so much faster. It’s really sensitive with tyres. You get the OZ wheels too. They’re only on the Factory, not the standard RSV1000R.

“The brakes are Brembo monobloc radial calipers and I’ve fitted Titax adjustable levers. True one-finger operation. Doesn’t need anymore than that. Brilliant brakes. There’s a common misconception about the rear brake with a lot of owners: they think the rear brake doesn’t work and is useless - that’s a load of bollocks. I put fresh DOT4 fluid in there every 6 months, and you know what else? I USE IT! You’ve just got to keep on top of it and use it! It is a Brembo after all. I’ve turned the disc blue before…”

What else?

“Some owners have changed the front sprocket to get even more acceleration but it renders it unrideable. Too many wheelies. All I’ve done is put Talon sprockets on it at the standard gearing. They’re lighter than standard so it reduces the inertial mass and improves acceleration slightly that way. A side benefit there is that it improves fuel consumption. It has a form of slipper clutch - a back torque limiter - as standard too. I didn’t even know it had one until I was into a corner a bit too hot up near Settle and the limiter helped it get back on line.

“A clutch slave cylinder does wonders for clutch lever pressure too, otherwise you’ll get RSI in your hand from the riding position.”

The noise from those Akrapovic pipes is unbelievable.

“You can ride through a village and you don’t get people waving sticks at you. It’s like speed by stealth.”

What, even though I’ve heard you from half-a-mile away?

“Yeah. If you were on a screaming 600 people would think bloody ‘ell listen to that lunatic. People can’t tell how fast you’re going ‘cos the noise is a different pitch. What’s really addictive though is riding through tunnels!”

What’s the fuel consumption like?

“You can empty a tank in 40 minutes. It likes super unleaded - really makes a difference. You’ll get 35 mpg under “normal use” - whatever that is - and about 18-ish in town.”

But anyone who buys one of these with fuel consumption in mind is a muppet anyway.

“Exactly. Just expect to put 50% more fuel in than everyone else as a rule of thumb and you’ll be alright…

“It’s also good in winter too. It’s like sitting on a big radiator. Warm air comes out of the fairing on to your legs; the rear cylinder is nearly underneath your arse, and if the fans come on they direct warm air over your hands. In fact it’s a testament to how good the Ohlins rear shock is that the shock doesn’t overheat. That shock, by the way, cost £450 to service. You’ve got to keep on top of it. You’ve got to swallow the costs/depreciation and not worry about it -“

Because that’s not why you’re supposed to be owning it.

“Right. Don’t treat it like some sort of investment. Ride it.”

Lets Get The Bad News Out Of The Way Next

“The thing that does give problems on these is the electrics.

“The dash is brilliant. Best clocks ever. Same as the RSV4. Big tacho with a flashing red LED as a shift light - but it would be good if the speedo worked…

“I was on the motorway against a Porsche - then there’s all this smoke billowing out everywhere and it just died. Turns out the rear brake caliper has a speed sensor on it that had malfunctioned. The wire from the sensor to the ECU melted and caught fire. Trouble is it’s all connected to the fuel pump and ignition and everything - the whole bike could have caught fire. I’ve disconnected it. That’s actually a potentially dangerous flaw there.”

What else?

“I’ve ripped out the sidestand switch - literally ripped it out - ‘cos it would cause the engine to cut out in corners! Starting any V-twin is always risky too as the high compression means you need a big battery, which gets killed after 7 full cranks. You can’t bump-start them ‘cos of the compression either. You have to jump it. In an ideal world you’d carry a spare battery everywhere.

“The ignition key is another weak spot as it’s extremely fragile. It breaks easily and is as fickle as a virgin’s drawers.

“It has a suicidal sidestand. It’s not long enough. They made it short to stop it fouling the swingarm, so it leans over too far. Apparently the stand off a Fireblade will fit it. Always find a camber or incline to park it against otherwise it will fall over without fail.

“You could say the biggest issue with these is that spares are very difficult to get hold of. Anything more substantial than consumables and you have to wait ages and pay through the nose.”


Let’s Talk About The Good Bits

“The Factory’s USP is its character. Japanese bikes are too clinical. No personality - no charisma - they’re like buying white goods. The Factory isn’t clinical at all. It has its own personality. This is what Italian exotica are like. All the problems are part of the adventure. Part of the relationship. My mate Ady’s 996: he has to go though some sort of ritual before he starts it. Mine has a gearbox ritual: you have to jab the lever with your foot a certain way to get neutral.”

So is it worth all these problems, and the threat of them, just for that riding experience?

“Definitely. It’s got no ABS, no TC, no AW, no yaw control, no launch control. Just 100% pure torque. A true purist’s bike.

So in the words of Guy Martin, it’s a real man’s bike.

“Yeah. It’s a man’s bike. You can’t ride it like a muppet. It’s fun, but it’ll snap. A V-twin has a longer duration of power stroke so it has more edge grip under power in corners - it’s what “big bang” means - and because of that you can take liberties with it in the dry. If it’s wet though, it’s totally the opposite. The torque becomes a disadvantage - highsides everywhere. It’s fun, but it’ll snap.

Is it a bike that intrinsically rewards skill?

“Yes. It’s not for novices at all. To get the most out of it, you’ve got to be right on your game, and that’s what makes it so satisfying to ride - that it makes those demands on you.”

Would you have another one?

“No. But not because of the unreliable electrics. The only thing I’d change it for would be a Panigale or an RSV4 Factory. Japanese bikes just don’t cut it for me anymore - they’d be a retrograde step. Even the BMW HP4 is just too clinical.”

All this for four grand. The Factory really is the performance bargain of the decade then?

“Yeah. It can run with any one of the above in the hands of a skilled rider and hold its own. Its contemporaries are bikes like the 996. It’s faster than a 996 and has better brakes. It has the same power as a 999, handles better than a 999 and is three grand cheaper than a 999R.
The insurance was £700 cheaper too…”


So even the scumbag insurance cartels don’t realise what they are?


“No.”

Ex-F1 driver Martin Brundle did a DVD a few years back called “Supercars”, in which, on exotica, he said “it’s not just the thrill of driving it, it’s the pleasure that it gives to others.”

“Exactly. That’s what exotica is all about. I went into Stockport town centre on an errand. I came back out of the shop and there was about 10 people stood around it - this old boy is on his hands and knees examining it in detail. He asked me how much it was worth - must have cost thousands he said. I told him you could pick one up for £4k - nobody would believe me.

“Every ride becomes memorable. I went to the Manx Grand Prix in 2011 as part of a mate’s team, and I took the Factory over the Mountain. I did two epic wheelies on the bit from Kate’s Cottage to Creg-ny-Baa and then down to Signpost Corner. The next day somebody came up to me in the pub and wanted to congratulate me. I thought he was going to bollock me! Another good bit was passing a police Range Rover on the Mountain at Joey’s doing 130. It’s the only place in the world where you could do that.

“It’s a proper future classic. It’s got good looks - it’s one of the best-looking bikes out there. It’s got character, character, character. It’s got more power than anyone can reasonably deal with, and it’s got incredible handling - a good rider can be the fastest thing on the road.

“It really is one of the most under-rated motorcycles ever made. For the next couple of years, values are going to stay low. When people start buying bikes again, they’ll go to the showroom and see the price of a Panigale, a Fireblade, an R1 etc. then they’ll see a 6/7-year-old Aprilia and look at the spec and they’ll be ripping people’s arms off. “

In newer company like that, doesn’t that make the Factory an analogue player in a digital world?

“Yeah, but you know how vinyl records sound better than CDs…?”

* * *

The Timeline


1998 - RSV Mille marks Aprilia’s first foray into big superbikes. Heavily-influenced by their small-capacity prototypes that owned in GPs. 128 bhp V-twin, 189 kg, £9,450 RRP. 2k less than the Ducati 916.

1999 - RSV Mille R and RSV Mille SP: the “R” gets Ohlins all round, OZ rims and a host of other upgrades. The “SP” is the WSBK homologation, with a new 996cc engine using a different bore/stroke and producing 145 bhp. Adjustable swingarm pivots, aluminium fuel tank. Only 150 produced. The “shotgun” tailpipes are the only way you can identify one externally.

2002 - Noriyuki Haga replica. Factory-fitted Akrapovic exhaust with different ECU chip. 300 were made.

2003 - Colin Edwards replica. Same as the Haga rep but with the RS3 Cube paintjob from MotoGP. Radial front brakes.

2004 - RSV1000R and Factory introduced to take on Ducati’s 998/999. New RSV is lighter, more powerful and with sharper bodywork carrying a central ram air intake. Big huge dual sidepipes and radial brakes as standard.

2004 - RSV1000R “Nera” special edition. Liberal use of weight-saving titanium and magnesium alloys, new lighter pistons, carbon fibre bodywork. Ohlins everywhere and Brembo racing brakes. RRP £25,000. Came with freebies like Dainese leathers and MotoGP tickets.

2006 - Final update for the RSV1000R including the gold frame finish. Aprilia starts developing the fearsome RSV4, which today is dominating WSBK.

2008 - the RSV1000R is finally discontinued after Aprilia’s contract with engine supplier Rotax comes to an end.


© Stuart Jewkes 2013

17 Feb 2013

Living with - Honda CB600F Hornet

Owner - Stuart Jewkes
Bike - Honda CB600F Hornet, 2010

Genesis


I vividly remember what happened the first time I went out on my Hornet after I’d bought it. I only rode into the centre of Warrington to fill the tank up. I stopped at some traffic lights, and a bloke on a ZZR-600 pulled up alongside. He looked across at mine and said “That’s nice that mate.”

Kudos on Day 1, and I hadn’t even cleaned it yet. I knew then I’d made the right call.

I bought mine in May 2010, shortly after passing my test. It was on an informal shortlist of about four naked bikes. A Hornet wasn’t actually at the top of that list - not at first, but after consulting a few resources online and in print, I realised a Hornet was the right combination of essentially everything a novice needs in a motorcycle, and everything that I wanted, because I’m firmly in the camp that believes a novice should aim for an older, less expensive machine that can be repaired easily when you inevitably drop it (because drop it you will, even if it takes two years like I did).

I saw mine in the now-defunct Knutsford Honda in Cheshire, all bright yellow and decals, and, well, it chose me. That’s what Hornets do to you. Its previous owner had done just 74 miles on it between MOTs, and I was about to get into doing that in two hours every Sunday morning.

Here Comes The Science

Mine is a 2000 CB600F-Y, with the 17-inch front wheel and a couple of other mods to the induction and brakes that essentially moderated it and made it slightly less frantic than it's ’98-’00 predecessor. As is common with Hornets, mine had been slightly modified cosmetically by a previous owner, and there is a seemingly infinite range of mods available for them - to the point that with older models like mine, you’re unlikely to find two alike. For the record, the most common mods tend to be flatter, wider Renthal bars and braided brake lines that improve the brakes no end.

The definitive 600 first arrived in 1998, featuring a simple, parts bin combination of an almost crude box-spine frame carrying a detuned, retuned, 95 bhp CBR600F engine as a semi-stressed member; together with basic suspension, non-adjustable except for preload on a rear monoshock that doesn’t even have a rising rate linkage.

The thing about that Honda parts bin though, is that it can only have been raided after the designers had a heavy sake session in one of those late-night karaoke bars in Hamamatsu. It’s all in the wheels. The Hornet’s standout feature, and the one aspect of it that gives a true insight into the Japanese character, are the wheels: they are straight off a Fireblade. The oversized 180-section back tyre is a pure style statement that has no basis in common sense (a 160-section would improve the handling further); but hey, it looks great, and let’s face it, it’s more manly. I know this to be true because it’s part of the reason why I bought one. As a bunch of female bikers once said in a magazine interview I read: “if his back tyre is wider than his hips, then he’s alright.”

If I sound critical of the Hornet by pointing out flaws, it is only to highlight that it is one of the best examples out there of a motorcycle being considerably more than the sum of its parts, to the point where any flaws are cancelled out by an indefinable, sake-influenced “X-factor” that makes it enjoyable and fun to ride. This and the enormous potential for customisation is how the Hornet’s cultish reputation has grown over the years. An extremely popular race series was created around them (the Hornet Cup), and you’ll still see the odd one in the club paddock today, not to mention trackdays.

The round, retro headlight means it is egalitarian: everyone will nod at you and non-bikers will stop and look at it and consider it cool. Hornets have a purposeful stance about them, which you only notice when you park it next to something else. Next to a Hornet, a Bandit 600 looks like it’s made of bamboo.

What’s It Like To Ride?

The riding experience is all about flattering you and helping you get on with learning to ride, which means you’ll become obsessed with the size of your chicken strips [1] - they become a target. The handling has no vices, and an experienced rider would enjoy throwing it on its ears in corners - although an experienced rider might also find the suspension is actually a little too soft; a situation not helped if it hasn’t been refreshed or upgraded at some point. 

It’s also quite a diminutive bike, which means it’s great in traffic as you can filter like a scooter, and the riding position is benign and quite comfortable for someone of my height (5’8”), although if you ride for more than an hour at a time your arse will feel it eventually - the lack of a clock on the clocks means you tell the time by your Numb Arse Clock: if your arse is numb, it’s an hour since you set off…

As an inline-four, it has those trademark thrashy mid-range vibes through the pegs/bars/seat - it’s a Hornet and it buzzes like one. There are two ways of keeping this to a minimum: either add Redex or Silkolene Pro-FST to the fuel, or get the oil warmed right up by absolutely caning it, which is what it wants.

The 16-litre fuel tank (designed to resemble a wasp’s thorax) will give around 120 miles to reserve under normal use, but 100 miles-to-reserve is more realistic when caning it, which is what actually constitutes “normal use” with one of these. That’s how it wants you to ride it; to trundle around in the bottom-half of the revcounter is to waste it, and to ride it like that requires some sort of iron self-discipline that frankly, I haven’t got. In fact, do this in traffic on a warm summer day and you will eventually incur its displeasure - as it gets hot, the clutch will become grabby and the gearshift will get clunky. You have to make progress - you get that trait with small bike radiators where the temperature gauge creeps up a bit when you’re following cagers down a road, as any cooling airflow through the rad is disrupted by the cager’s presence in front of you. So there you are: progress must be made for the bike’s own good…

The dual character of the engine is obvious - there’s a noticeable step in the delivery at about 6k after which it takes off and pulls hard all the way to a 13k redline and, if you use the six gears properly to keep it bubbling away in the mid-range at about 8k, it becomes a giant-killer that will shut down most averagely-ridden sportsbikes on a country road.

A Hornet is as reliable as a stone because of that inherent simplicity that I referred to earlier. In my just-under three years of ownership, all I’ve needed to do is routine maintenance. Like any bike, it will thank you for regular oil/filter changes, and that bulletproof, eminently-tunable CBR600 engine will go on forever as long as the cam chain tensioner is monitored - listen for the tinkling sound that indicates replacement is near.

In my experience, a Hornet’s gearshift is very sensitive to chain tension and clutch freeplay. If either of these are out by even a small amount, the quality of the shift degrades dramatically. But then that should only ever be an incentive to be the mechanic that all bikers should be [2]. Keep on top of it and, when it’s run-in after about 20,000 miles, the gearshift is like a rifle bolt.

Tyres: that 180-section extravagance means there’s a massive choice of full-on semi-slick sportsbike tyres available to you, or you can stick with the rock-hard, wooden commuter tyres like those Avons my mate’s got on his Hornet, which have not appreciably worn at all in about 7000 miles. I use Dunlop D209 Sportmax Qualifiers, which suit the kind of riding I do (I get about 4500 miles out of a set), and offer massive confidence in all conditions, even in winter, and even on the M56 last month in the kind of heavy rain that they test jet engines in.

Summary

As far as value for money goes, the ’00-’02 model is the way forward for a novice rider, because it is a better ride than its ’98-’00 predecessor and the running costs are still reasonable. You’ll find a good one for <£2k, and if you’re subject to the A2 licence restriction, then the 47 bhp restrictor kit is widely available. Then you will keep it for two or three years, you will learn to love it, and during your ownership, you will evolve from a noob into a proficient and skilled motorcyclist, who will be able to keep up with anything on a twisty road, and if you’re really good, set the pace. You’ll upgrade it as your ability progresses, and it will get better alongside you. You may even name it.

A Suzuki SV650 or a Yamaha Fazer may be technically superior bikes (especially a Fazer with its R1-derived brakes), but neither of them are the kind of bike that will make you look back at it before you close the garage door after a quality ride. A Hornet will. Every time.

* * *

[1] Chicken strips explanation for non bikers - strips of untouched rubber at the edge of the tyre, which means you're not leeeeeeeaning it over enough
[2] I had a search term show up on my blog the other day: “am I a real biker if I let someone else service my bike?” No mate, you’re not…

The Timeline
1996: Hornet 250 - the original Japan-only tax-avoider that started it all and remains seriously niche. Only available over here for a short time as a grey import.

1998: first of the 600s. 16-inch Fireblade wheels gave Fireblade handling (twitchy in an exciting way). 

2000: the upgrade: improved brakes; massively improved stability in corners with the 17-inch front wheel. Re-mapped ignition improved throttle response.

2000: Hornet S introduced, with the bikini fairing. This was the only version you could get in Australia.

2001: the Hornet 900 with the Fireblade engine and twin pipes. You’d automatically assume this would be a fire-breathing Z1000-killer, but it wasn’t. For some reason it just didn’t work. Sold few; dropped in 2007. The sake drinkers mustn’t have been involved...

2003: 600 mid-life upgrade. Engine mapping changed again for emissions control. New clocks and re-styled headlight arrangement; HISS immobiliser; 17-litre fuel tank; suspension settings improved. 

2005: USD forks introduced on the 600, with LCD/analogue combo dash.

2007: the facelift. CBR600RR mill with fuel injection; totally new waspish headlight arrangement; plastic everywhere. Cast aluminium frame instead of steel.

2009: suspension gets rebound adjusters.

Further reading

Hornet Owners’ Club and Forum: http://www.hondahornet.co.uk 

Many thanks to Stuart for his review of his Honda CB600F Hornet.  You can find Stuart at his own website here http://thisbikerslife.wordpress.com